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  • Rudder Questions

    After being out on the water, I realize that I want to add a rudder to my kayak. This is the rudder for my Synergy 14:

    http://www.harmonygear.com/product/0...2C_MRC_Synergy

    I need some help understanding this system. The kayaks I've paddled with a rudder were controlled with the foot pegs. Is this one just not pictured with the foot pegs & rails? My footpegs are stationary with notched adjustments. Do rudder kits come with replacement/sliding footpegs?

    Thanks
    <insert witty comment here>

  • #2
    After some quick research...I think I'm liking the looks of this

    http://www.clcboats.com/shop/product...er-system.html
    <insert witty comment here>

    Comment


    • #3
      ive had 2 yaks with rudders, a 16' tandem that i ordered with a rudder that i had to fix after maiden voyage of circling around to get back to the ramp. one of the crimps was loose and it would only go to the left. after re crimping it worked fine. and my hobie came with a rudder, my tarpon and redfish didnt have a rudder and they were fine also. its a lot easier to do a drift with the rudder, you can position your self by turning it to set the drift the way you want to fish comfortably. the major benefit is tracking on windy days.

      on the madriver do you have access to the inside? you dont want to run the cables on the outside

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      • #4
        I don't have a big hatch like OK yaks have, but I can access the hull interior with my center hatch, allowing me to guide the tubes to their exit holes. It has the flat spots that look are designed for the drilling of holes for the rudder lines to be ran. I looked at it when I got home today. It appears that I'd drill my hole, then feed the lin thru the hull until it reaches the exit hole.

        I would drill the holes in the stern, then the holes at the exit point in the cockpit. I'll then run the tubing from the stern entrance to the cockpit exit. Then I would feed the rudder cable thru the tubing going from the cockpit end to the stern. I will add some pics to my post in a little while to help illustrate what I'm saying


        This thought is based on the instructions I read from the smart Trac kit.

        Am I underestimating/oversimplifying?
        Last edited by MetroMan; 09-27-2010, 07:37 PM.
        <insert witty comment here>

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        • #5
          This is the transom of my kayak:


          The hole will be drilled here. I would insert the rudder cable tube, and feed it thru the hull.

          This is where the hole will be drilled in the cockpit. This pic is facing the stern of my kayak...you are looking at the port side.



          The rudder cable tube will exit here. Once the tube is installed on both sides, the metal cable will be fed thru the tube. It will enter the tube at the cockpit, and exit the tube at the transom. (with this kit, the metal cable comes pre-attached to the toe-controls, so the cable gets fed from front to rear)
          <insert witty comment here>

          Comment


          • #6
            Does your Synergy have foot pegs? If so, they are probably the same to use with a rudder? If at all possible, try to get a rudder kit made by the same company who made the kayak.

            It sound as if the little flat spots on the rear of the kayak are for the cable holes. It is not that big a deal to run the rudder cables. They should go inside. Make sure you have enough access to the underneath portion of the kayak. The kit will most likely have gromets that fit in the drilled holes and then run the cables through the gromets. The cables will run through the peg wholes and then you crimp them or use a set screw type crimp. Mount the rudder to the rear and you done. To avoid any problems, after you have found the kit you like, call the company and talk to their tech people to verify you found the right kit. If you don't get the answers yor need, go elsewhere.

            I have installed a couple rudders and converted a rudder to an electric motor, and it is not that difficult. It is even easier if you have the right kit. Otherwise, you can modify. Most of the crimps and needed material are available from marine stores.

            One piece a advice, when mounting anything to a kayak. Drill the hole a bit smaller than the bolts you are going to use. Drill just small enough so that the bolt will have to thread its way into the hole. That way you will get a waterproof installation. The addition of goop or silicone is further insurance. Bolts for rudders will be exposed to the water. The use of this installation tip will help keep it waterproof

            Good Luck.

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            • #7
              Thanks Dogfish!

              I do indeed have footpegs. They have the adjustable/locking mechanism that only allows them the slide a notch at a time. I would need to get sliding rails to allow the footpegs to travel back and forth to control the rudder. This doesn't appear to be included with this kit.

              For $5 less, I think I want to go with this universal kit, that includes absolutely everything.
              <insert witty comment here>

              Comment


              • #8
                I've now have seen your photos. Thats what it looks like, where to drill. The two stainless bolts or screws in the back are where you will mount the actuall rudder. The black piece in you photos, I assume is the foot peg. The company who made the kayak must make a rudder kt to fit that kayak. It should be just a matter of a bolt on installation, with some drilling. You are going to want to have a rudder that lines up with those bolts. If like most others, those are bolts with inset nuts.


                Good Luck.

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                • #9
                  Everything in a kit is best.

                  Hey by the way. Is that the most interesting man in the world, Dos Equis!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Yes, it is lol!

                    Thanks for your tips and input dogfish. I just ordered the smart track rudder kit.
                    <insert witty comment here>

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                    • #11
                      I ordered this rudder kit from Austin Kayak. The kit arrived on Friday and I immediately began the installation. I'd been researching rudder kits online, and I studied the installation instructions as well...so I was ready to rock.

                      I am halfway done with my installation, with the most tedious parts behind me. The tedious part was running the rudder cable tubing from the stern, and through the hull. The cable tubing (which is required, but sold separately from the kit) is semi-flexible, but it comes coiled in its packaging. I had to try to straighten it out to make it easier to run through the hull. The first few times it kinda coiled up inside the hull. With the use of a mirror, I was able to see what was going on inside the hull, and I was successful in running the tubing. The tubing comes as a 20' segment, which enough to take care of both sides.

                      When it came time to install the foot rails, I was a bit puzzled. The mounting points for the Smart Track footrails are on the back of the rails. My current footrails have the screws on the front. So I called Austin Kayak, and they told me that I needed to use the "vertical adjustment kit" in order for this system to work on a sit on top kayak. It sure would be nice if they made this known! So I ordered that adjustment kit, and its scheduled to arrive on Wednesday. Also, a couple of small things were missing from my kit. A cotter pin for one of the rear steering assemblies, as well as the cleat used to latch the rudder depolyment cord. These items are going to be shipped to me on Monday. I wish I could've gotten it all done at once, but oh well. The folks at AK were friendly and helpful though.

                      The installation is really straight forward. I'm looking forward to getting it out on the water with my fancy rudder. Here are a few pics...

                      The kit...


                      Rear Mount Bracket Installed. I had to drill the lower hole.



                      Drilling the stern hole for the rudder cable tubing


                      Drilling the cockpit hole for the rudder cable tubing



                      The tubing, ran from the stern, exiting up front...
                      <insert witty comment here>

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                      • #12
                        Running the cable thru the tubing, from front to rear...




                        The rudder assembly...


                        Almost done...

                        just waiting on the final parts to be delivered...
                        <insert witty comment here>

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                        • #13
                          The vertical adjustment kit arrives on Wednesday, and the missing cotter pin & cleat arrive on Thursday. So I should be done with this just in time for Friday & Saturday!
                          <insert witty comment here>

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                          • #14
                            It looks like a nice kit. Good things are worth waiting for, but its just more difficult when the fish are biting. I am a rudder type of kayaker; it will be a substantial improvement.


                            Good Luck.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Great job on the install so far. You got all the hard stuff out of the way. Running the cable tubes to the back of the hull must have been a pain. How did you fish it thru the hull without any access points back there? It looks like you could have run a pull line from the back into the center of the boat and access that thru the center hatch. Then tie that off to the tubes and pull back Thur the stern.

                              edit: Now that i looked at the pics closer I'm guessing running the tubes from the back first and the using the center hatch to push through the foot well would be easier

                              You will love the rudder. Makes life much easier in the wind and current. Good luck this weekend.

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