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Rigging My Profish Relaod

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  • Rigging My Profish Relaod

    Before I got my reload, I did a lot of research on the best way to rig it for open water fishing. I also took into account some issues I have always just dealt with and decided to do something about them.

    First up, I get tired of throwing the paddle overboard on a big hook-up, or messing with the retaining cord to try and fix it to the kayak. This is precious time lost while trying to catch the fish. So I decided to add the Yak-Gear taco paddle clip. This has worked great in testing; the clip quickly grabs hold of the paddle and holds it to the yak while I fight the fish. However, it is not a long term solution for keeping the paddle secure. So when transporting or sitting for a while, I use the pre-rigged bungee retainer to secure the paddle in the taco clip.



    I talked to Stephen Tapp in length about his style of rigging up rod holders and the reasoning for it. I decided to give it a try and it really paid off. There are two rod holders mounted via two Railblaza Starport HDs on the tackle pod in front of me and angled back towards me. This allows me to keep an eye on the rod tips for bites while trolling, let's me maintain an efficient high arc paddle stroke, and makes changing out lures/bait easier since the line drops down into your lap instead of off to the side. I have not had any issues with cross tangles yet, but I also run two depths of lures when trolling. And I can angle them outward if necessary:



    I also mounted flush rod holders on each side in the molded spots for them. This has really been useful so far. When one rod hooks up, I can move the other off to a side flush mount holder to get it out of the way. I also mounted 2 rear rod holders angled outward. This is useful for bottom fishing because it allows me to have one/two rods in the side flush holders angled forward, and one/two in the rear holders angled backwards.



    They were pretty easy to install myself with the tools I already have. (2" hole saw, pocket knife, screwdriver) The trick to getting them flush was to shave a bit off once the hole was drilled out. I could do this with my pocket knife pretty easy. Then the rear rod holders was all about measuring the angles and getting them lined up the same. You don't have to perfect this, but I have OCD.



    The fishfinder was easy to install if you get the kit for it, but someone creative could also make something similar.

    For reference, this is the bottom inset for the transducer:

    And this is the top looking down through the scupper that the transducer cables run through:


    So all you need to do is mount the transducer with the supplied hardware (easy instructions to follow). I shortened the bolt a bit, but not too much since you need it to pass through the scupper completely:


    Then just run the cables up through the scupper, and fasten down the transducer mount:


    Now the hardest part for me was getting all the excess transducer cabling into the scupper. Lowrance sure does give you a long cable!


    Then put the cover back on the scupper and run the power cable through the tackle pod into the inside where the battery can be kept. Seal up the power cable hole and figure out a way to secure the battery. If you use the kit, some straps are options are provided in the instructions. I wanted mine off to the side and in the rear of the tackle pod:


    I also mounted the base on top of where I ran the power cable through and it turned out pretty good.

    Fishfinder's all done!


    Last I added my two Starport HD mounts. I used wellnuts for these, they hold strong and are water tight. The Starport HD has 4 holes and is very sturdy.


    That's it! As I add or change things, I will update here! Scroll through this thread to see more posts of my rigging. Including the falcon sail.
    Last edited by Frogsauce; 09-14-2015, 06:56 PM.

  • #2
    Looks good, you should be able to leave the ff mounted all the time on the pod, huh?
    Hobie fleet:
    2017 Quest 13
    2015 Outback
    2014 Outback

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    • #3
      Nice upgrade from the Tarpon

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Cowpokey View Post
        Looks good, you should be able to leave the ff mounted all the time on the pod, huh?
        Yep, no more loading/unloading battery/sounder/rod holders/tackle/etc. Just grab the pod and go.

        One exception is when I am crabbing. I don't take the rod holders with me then. Also, I am going to figure out a way to mount my stackable traps up near the front of the kayak. But I need a free milk crate first. Stalking the dumpsters now.

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        • #5
          Rudder

          I got the rudder installed today. Only took a couple hours to finish, would probably only take an hour now that I know the routine.

          The most difficult part is running the cables from end to end. I didn't have a powerful magnet, so I couldn't use that trick. Instead I use some snare wire I have (which is basically 24 ga wire) and wrapped it around a heavy nail. I fed that into the hole in the back, then lifted the kayak and let it slide to the front. That created my leader line to attach the rudder cable to and pull it through.

          To keep the cable tube from sliding into the yak, I used a couple of "P" clamps.



          I like how this one is designed, it sits flush with the bottom of the kayak but is also very big so it is still effective. It is bungee'd so if it were to hit anything while moving it would lift a bit and then come back down. That's to prevent snagging and breaking. I also like how they use braided rope instead of cable; it won't rust and is still very strong.

          When carted, the rudder would touch the ground when I stop rolling and set it down. To remedy this, I used a spare float I had to cut out a spacing disc for it. This keeps the rudder slightly elevated and off the ground while in transit.

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          • #6
            Looks good!

            For the shackle that attaches to the rudder, if you haven't done so already, I'd recommend using a bit of thread sealant (like loc-tite) on the threads. With general vibration, I had one come loose and magically disappear. I replaced both of them with a different style on fastener from Lowes.

            How did you get those grommets at the cable exit ports to fit in the holes? That was IMPOSSIBLE for me to do!!
            <insert witty comment here>

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            • #7
              I did crank down those shackles really tight, but will certainly hit it with some loc-tite if I can get it back open.

              Also, Dish Soap! A little lube for those tight spaces! Rinse well after then applied some marine goop to seal it up.

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              • #8
                Ahhh dish soap. Mine are not fully inserted. I tried using silicone...I think thats what the instructions recommended. One of them began to tear from me trying to force it in there.
                <insert witty comment here>

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                • #9
                  I also got the WindPaddle hooked up too. I was arguing with myself over where to put it. It works best if it is centered around the foot-pegs area (roughly 1/3 the length of the yak from the front). I finally settled with on top of the hatch. I don't use the hatch as much since there is so much other storage, and it is clipped on so I can always move it out of the way if i need to get into the hatch.



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                  • #10
                    I went to dinner on the other side of the bay at Kentmorr last week, and saw a guy with a hand-held sail to coast along.
                    If I got one of those, it would be a treble hook magnet.
                    <insert witty comment here>

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                    • #11
                      I like this one because it folds up and the material is like a plastic/tarp and pretty strong. Hooks dont grab it easily.

                      But, it doesn't help you when your moving into the wind, only when your moving with it. I haven't have a chance to test it on the Reload yet. I bet I will be able to get some pretty good speeds in heavy wind. I got 5-6 mph in the Tetra with this thing in 10 mph winds. All that without paddling. So I can't wait for another 10+ mph windy day.

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                      • #12
                        What is your opinion on the sail? I've been eyeing those all summer now. Like you said, it only works with the wind, and that is the time you need it least. It seems like it would be relaxing to sit back and let the sail do the work.

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                        • #13
                          I like the sail, but it does take a bit of planning on when/if to use it.

                          For example, I can paddle to Tillman Island from Chesapeake Beach and back in one day (roughly 20 miles) if the wind is strong from the east. I paddle over into the wind and let the sail take me back home.

                          On a typical outing though, I know if the wind is >8 mph and from east or west, I will take the sail and let it do the coming or going for me. On days where it is shifty or from north/south, I leave it behind (or don't take it out).

                          The main advantage is it's size and how it folds up really small compared to other sails. If you go out in windy conditions a lot, I would recommend it. If you only fish calm days, probably not worth it.

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                          • #14
                            I made my rod leashes similar to how a lot of the guys over in NZ and AUS do it too.

                            The main tie line is bungee with a 4-6" leader of nylon/50-50 cord. Then the rod section is larger nylon rope.



                            The leader cord on the tie line has a loose slip knot tied on it with about an inch of excess. The rod section has a larger surgeons loop style knot in it. The leader cord slips over the larger rod section...



                            Pulls tight and won't slip off...



                            Until you pull the 1" of excess on the leader line.



                            This allows a really quick release of the rod from the leash. And a really easy re-attach once the rod is put back down.

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                            • #15
                              Rudder Keep

                              I decided to change out the rudder for the Ocean Kayak style blade. They are interchangable between the two. The wider rudder works better on the Tetra and the longer rudder digs in deeper on the Profish. I prefer the sharper turns of the deeper rudder, so I swapped them. I just need to be careful when running aground since it now protrudes down past the bottom of the yak. I never really liked having the pulley strings to raise and lower the rudder. They always got in the way. So to do the minimalist thing, I decided to make it retractable for transport and storage using some very basic material I had in the garage.

                              I ran the bungee through one of the holes in the rudder blade and tied a knot in one side.


                              Then I marked out a spot for the clam cleat on the rudder bracket and drilled through it.


                              Now, with the clam cleat attached, I can run the bungee through the rudder bracket and secure it to the clam cleat.


                              This lets the blade move over objects without snagging and retract back into the downward position. But I can also pull the bungee loose and store the blade upright for travel and storage.


                              I'll still need to be careful when landing in shallow water, but with the stability of this yak, I can always climb back and raise the rudder if I am worried about it.

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